Wood Flooring Installation Instruction with Loc System

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1. Inspection responsibility

Power Dekor wood flooring is produced in precise working steps in one of the most modern production sites. All products will be constantly and strictly controlled. Despite our strict quality controls, damages on single panels can occur, i.e. transportation damages. Always check the panels before and during the installation.
Attention! Check every board carefully before installation for any manufacturing blemishes.
Wood flooring is not suitable for installations in wet rooms such as bathrooms, saunas or in similar rooms.

2. Sub floor requirements

2.1 All sub floors must be prepared for installation in accordance with normal sub floor preparation procedures and accepted tolerances within the flooring industry.
2.2 Before installing there are the following points to consider:
Moisture test
The test will be carried out using a CM-device and should not exceed the following moisture level:
For cement based concrete 2%CM
For anhydrite concrete 0.5%CM
Evenness test – Evenness requirements are based on industrial typical standards. Maximum tolerance of 3mm per/m.
Load capacity – The sub floor has to be a closed and self-supporting surface.
Cleanness test – The sub floor has to be in a clean and vacuumed condition.
Test the climate condition in the room where the wood flooring will be installed.
The following conditions should be fulfilled before, during and after the installation: A room temperature of a minimum of 18°C (64°F)
A floor surface temperature of a minimum of 15°C (59°F)
A relative humidity between 40% and 70%

3. Sub floors

3.1 Wood flooring installed as a floating flooring configuration can be installed on all sub floors, which meet the above-described requirements. Here are some examples:
All types of concrete sub floors, including hot water radiant sub floor systems, particleboard sub floor constructions, fiberboard sub floor constructions, existing flooring surfaces such as PVC, linoleum, natural stone slab, ceramic tiles.
3.2 Unsuitable sub floors are: textile surfaces, carpets.
3.3 Limited suitable sub floors are: electrical radiant sub floor heating systems (controlled through the surface temperature) Explanation and limitation for the use of electrical radiant sub floor heating system:
Basically, an electrical radiant sub floor heating system is an approved sub floor type only if the heating element is installed within the concrete or other sub floors and not installed as a foil heating element on top of the concrete or other sub floors. The recommended unit power is 100W/m2.
Attention! The surface temperature may never exceed 26°C Electrical radiant sub floor heating systems installed as a foil-heating element may be used only if the manufacturer of the heating element can ensure that the surface temperature never exceeds 26°C.
3.4 Please note the following rules for the different sub floor types:
3.4.1 Concrete sub floors. If flooring system is installed over a concrete sub floor, you have to consider that possible rest moisture in the sub floor will seep to the surface of the sub floor.
Based on the above-mentioned reason it is always necessary to install a 0.2 mm (8 mil) polyethylene film as a moisture barrier over concrete sub floors.
3.4.2 Concrete with hot water radiant heating systems. To ensure that radiant heating systems will work properly for many years to come, it is essential to plan and coordinate the different elements of the flooring construction (concrete, radiant heating system, laminate flooring). All existing floor surfaces need to be removed prior to the installation of the new flooring. In addition to the standard sub floor tests it is necessary to provide a certificate that the proper “heating-up and cooling-down phases” have been done. A correct heating-up and cooling-down of the concrete construction will be necessary in every season of the year.
The heating-up and cooling-down phase:
– Start of the heating-up phase at the earliest 21 days after the cement-based concrete has been installed, according to the manufacturer for anhydrite concrete but not before 7 days.
– Start the heating-up phase with a flow temperature of 23°C, which has to remain constant for three days.
– Increase the flow temperature daily by 5°C up to the maximum flow temperature. – Maintain the maximum flow temperature for three days without switching off the heater during the night.
– After three days reduce the flow temperature daily by 10°C until you reach a surface temperature of 18°C (64°F).
– During, and three days after, the installation of the laminate flooring panels maintain a surface temperature of 18°C (64°F).
– Three days after the installation you can start to slowly increase the flow temperature.
Attention! The surface temperature may never exceed 26°C; it is always necessary to install a 0.2 mm (8 mil) polyethylene film as a moisture barrier underneath the underlay.

4. Installation preparations

4.1 Acclimation of the panels: before starting the installation the flooring has to be brought into the room where it will be installed or in a room with the same climate condition. The acclimation will be carried out as following:
– in sealed unopened boxes;
– for a time period of at least 48 hours;
– flat laying with at least 50 cm (20″) distance to the walls;
– at a room temperature of at least 18°C;
– at a floor surface temperature of a minimum of 15°C;
– at a relative humidity between 40% and 65%.
4.2 Installation direction: wood flooring looks its best when the flooring panels are installed parallel to the light coming in through the windows. The only required installation direction is if you install the flooring over hardwood flooring boards. In this case you have to install the flooring at a 90 degree angle to the existing hardwood flooring boards.
4.3 Planning the first row: after determining the best layout of the flooring and the starting wall, measure the width of the room and divide it by the width of the flooring panels to determine the number of rows and the width of the last row. If the last row is determined to be less than 60mm wide, it should be adjusted by cutting the first row lengthwise.
4.4 Planning of expansion gaps: since wood flooring is made of organic materials, it is subject to certain movement behaviors (shrinkage/expansion) due to changes in climate conditions. It is necessary to leave gaps of 10mm for the expansion in all parts of the structure i.e. walls, doorframes, stairs, around pipes.
4.5 Planning of transition mouldings: through the shrinkage and expansion behavior of wood flooring you have to install transition mouldings in the following areas:
– at all door throughways;
– at all passageways;
– single room length and/or with more than 10 m (33 ft).

5. The Installation

5.1 Check all panels for possible damages/defects. Ensure you understand the difference between the tongue and the groove on the panel. Begin installing the first row from the left-hand corner of the room with both tongue sides of the panels pointing towards the wall. Place spacers between the edge of the flooring panels and the wall to provide the correct space for expansion. Connect the second panel to the first by indirectly tapped using a hammer and push block, thereby joining the boards’ headers. Mark the last panel in the first row to the required length (place tongue to tongue) and cut. Start the second row with the off cut from the last panel of the first row. Always make sure the off cut is at least 500 mm long, if not then cut another piece which is greater than 500mm long. Start all subsequent rows with the off cut piece from the previous row. Connect the second row to the first by placing the interlocking end of the new panel at an angle to the previously installed panel and then lower it into a horizontal position to lock then indirectly tapped using a hammer and push block, thereby joining the boards’ headers.
Tip: Although the long sides can be fitted together only by angling in a board, the short ends can be knocked together using a tapping block once the boards are lying flat against the sub floor. This may be necessary at doors, for example, or in other difficult places where the board needs to be slid into place.
When a board has to be tapped in lengthways, cut a small off-cut from the end of a board, which then fits into the joint and protects the end of the board from being damaged.
Attention! Ensure all the short ends are staggered at least 500 mm. It is vital to maintain a minimum of 500mm between the ends of boards in the adjacent rows (staggered).
5.2 Fitting around pipes
1. Measure the position of the pipes and mark it on the panel, also consider the expansion.
2. Take measurements from the spacers into account. Drill a hole of 16 mm (5/8″) bigger than the pipe diameter expansion provision.
3. Saw at a 45degree angle to the holes.
4. Apply glue to the sawn out piece and fit in with the pull bar. Again, do not forget the spacers.
5.3 Door jamb installation; if you have a wooden doorjamb, we recommend undercutting the wooden doorjamb according to the thickness of the flooring plus the possible underlay. Install the flooring now underneath the doorjamb – leave the necessary expansion gaps. In the case of completing your installation underneath a doorjamb, we recommend that you remove the locking part of the protruding groove of the pre-installed panel with a utility knife or a pocket plane. The newly laid panel can now be pushed horizontally over the groove of the previously laid panel. Use high quality wood glue on top of the tongue to secure the connection. If you have a doorjamb, which cannot be shortened, e.g. metal doorjamb, we recommend that you cover the expansion gaps with mouldings or fill them with elastic acrylic sealants.
5.4 Transition and wall mouldings; after a correct installation of the flooring, install the transitionmouldings as well as wall moulding.
For special installation techniques, i.e. installation on stairs or for at any other questions, please do not hesitate to contact us.